With its coveted rooftop location, deep-pocketed clientele and a head chef (Gary Foulkes) that’s helped retain the restaurant’s Michelin star for 11 long years, Angler feels a bit like the popular kid at school. This is a restaurant that everyone wants to be friends with; it’s still very much a place to be seen, potentially slinging back cocktails on its alfresco terrace, but peel away those cosmetically pleasing layers and Angler still holds an exceptional amount of substance that keeps punters coming back for more.
During the day, we can imagine the long, open dining room awash with natural light, streaming in through its huge, sloped windows, but we're here in the evening, when sunlight is swapped for clubby purple lighting and twinkling candles. One feels as though something exciting is about to happen, which it very much is.
Eating at Angler is a seamless experience from start to finish, or at least, such was our encounter of its tasting menu. Courses are delivered by calm staff members like a well-rehearsed procession they’ve clearly practiced a thousand times over. On paper, the menu looks like a lot, but one of Foulkes' talents is his ability to understand exactly what the diner wants and needs at every point of an eight plus course menu.
Lighter dishes crescendo to rich, gutsy ones. We move from dressed crab paired with ice cold sorbet and fiery wasabi, to langoustine on soft parmesan gnocchi, then finished with fresh truffle and truffle puree. Later on, roast cod finds a friend in caramelised, butter-rich parsnip puree, salty bacon and firm squid, while pink, pan-fried duck paired with sweet beetroot puree and whole peppercorns is all heady base notes. For sweet, a nostalgic concoction featuring dehydrated Pink Lady apple, vanilla mousse, mascarpone ice cream and cinnamon is like a deconstructed amalgamation of an apple tarte tatin and New York cheesecake.
We're clearly dining amongst city-slickers looking for somewhere to impress colleagues on every front, but they’ve chosen well, because Angler is bang on the money in every sense of the word.