The Holland

Ever since chef-owner Max de Nahlik took over The Holland, this neighbourhood pub has gone from good to great. It’s still very much a reliable British boozer, but with Max at the helm – the man also responsible for the raved-about pop-up Oxalis - it's now just as much a gastronomic destination as it is a place for a post-work pint.  

The dining room boasts a distinctly Scandi feel with exposed brick walls, wooden flooring and huge windows. We watch as locals come and go freely all evening, wiling away the early hours of their Friday night with a drink and a chat at the green-tiled bar. 

Max's menu is a joyous amalgamation of bold British dishes and playful twists. Even the house bread is a marvel; a warm and spongy loaf served with a deep pool of olive oil and sticky, spreadable black garlic. Starters include classic ideas executed with flair and generosity. There’s spiced crab on toast, which is so unctuously oozy it resembles scrambled eggs, while two brazen wedges of squash have been roasted and fried until soft, then served with a pool of liquid burrata and sweet chilli sauce.  

Mains are bold and brilliant: a gamey venison and smoked bacon faggot sits with buttery mash and creamed leeks. The dish that surprised us the most was a side of grilled hispi cabbage, packed with a triple umami hit of beetroot molasses, smoked tofu and salty crisp shallots. The sweet section of the menu is reserved for puddings, not desserts, and we chose a very nice miso brownie with creme fraiche, although it could have done with a few minutes less in the oven if we were being picky.  

To drink, we landed on a glass from the bottle list, which features a well-priced and unintimidating selection of premium wines and easy drinkers. There's a fun cocktail menu too of around 20 types of classic, fizzy, signature and non-alcoholic options. 

The Holland is quickly becoming Kensington’s worst kept secret, and we suggest paying it a visit while you can still get a table.

The Holland is a British pub and restaurant in Kensington, found just off Kensington High Street and a stone’s throw from Holland Park. This pub was formerly known as The Princess Victoria, but has been tastefully renovated and renamed, making The Holland into a proper local pub for the W8 community, as well as an elevated, destination restaurant in its own right.

Leading the way in the kitchen is chef Max de Nahlik, who worked most recently at the well-regarded Duke of Cambridge in Islington, as well as running his own pop-up Oxalis. De Nahlik's seasonal British cooking is served in the pub and the restaurant, and makes full use of local, seasonal British produce. Dishes trend towards the simple and well-executed, letting great ingredients shine. The menu includes the likes of spiced brown crab on toast, cured gurnard with blood orange and pink radicchio, as well as pork collar, broccoli rabe and rhubarb. 

The interiors have been designed by award-winning cabinet-maker Tortie Hoare, a lifelong friend of Nahlik's, who has taken inspiration from pubs across Dorset and the West Country. The ground floor and upstairs are purposely different - shades of green dominate the ground floor, whether it's emerald tiles on the bar or sage green walls, juxtaposed with exposed brick and repurposed floorboards. Upstairs, though, features sand-coloured walls and a collection of reclaimed furniture, including church pews. 

The Holland is also committed to sustainability beyond the kitchen. Napkins in the restaurant are made from 100% recycled plastic bottles, single-use plastics are avoided wherever possible, and filtered water is supplied by Belu, who donate 100% of net profits to WaterAid, and invest in sanitation projects all over the world.

As well as tucking into the food menu, ensure you don't miss out on the drinks offering which has been curated with healthy variation in mind. As well as a large selection of red and white, there's a few rather special orange wines to try, as well as a sparkling Cremant.