Since being given the boutique treatment, this grand old coaching inn has become a landmark in the centre of Llandeilo. The stylish bar & lounge bustle with locals, while the grandly proportioned dining rooms can accommodate any number of visitors without seeming crowded. Big portions & clear flavours underpin a menu that’s interesting but never challenging. Starters such as chicken liver & orange parfait or a hearty homemade salmon fishcake with lime aioli point the way, followed by herbed-rolled pork tenderloin with local bacon, Llanboidy cheese & leek risotto or chicken wrapped in Parma ham with tagliatelle & a tomato & olive sauce. For a comforting finish, maybe vanilla crème brûlée.