The Black Lamb

The Black Lamb is the sixth restaurant from foodie duo Richard and Oliver Gladwin who, considering they opened their last two restaurants within six months of each other, we can only assume never sleep. Located in the centre of picturesque Wimbledon Village, their latest offering follows the same sustainable ‘what grows together, goes together’ mantra as the rest of their ventures – a catchy tagline that’s more than just hot air. 

The name might conjure images of a cosy country pub, but this is unmistakably a restaurant, although it hasn’t stopped them from having fun with the décor. Higgledy-piggledy-placed artwork evokes the feel of a Mad Hatter’s tea party, while cheeky wallpaper depicting carrots in the shape of legs got a laugh from us.  

Seasonality is a big thing here and, although the menu certainly isn’t vegetarian, vegetables and fresh produce do play a starring role in every dish. A starter of buttermilk fried chicken pieces gets a fresh spin with splodges of lovage and pea puree, the hot batter pleasingly offset by sweet, spring ingredients. Two bite-sized mackerel cornettos arrived exactly as one would imagine: crisp cones filled with mackerel pate and caviar. They were utterly delightful, although sadly over in two bites.  

We do feel obliged to mention that there was a spot of confusion with our main course. What was supposed to be a pea and mint orzotto arrived as a bowl of pearl barley with peas and spring onions, which we couldn't help feel wasn’t really a fair trade, especially for £18. Elsewhere, a few dishes lacked punch and seasoning. Our final dish was a good one though: a rich slice of chocolate torte paired with a tangy crème fraiche sorbet.  

You can wash all of the above down with one of the wines made at the family vineyard in West Sussex if you like, although we weren’t drinking on the night and a zingy apple and elderflower mocktail hit the spot nicely. 

Each of the three Gladwin brothers brings something different to the table. One is a farmer, another a chef and the third a restauranteur. Yet they all have the same motto: “what grows together, goes together”. The brothers’ six (and counting) restaurants focus on seasonal produce from local farmers, high-welfare meat hand-reared on the family farm and their own, award-winning English wine (Nutbourne). The Black Lamb brings their local and wild style to Wimbledon Village, giving diners in southwest London the chance to “eat the seasons”.

Throughout the day, diners can enjoy a menu of seasonal small and sharing plates, including the likes of broad bean hummus with tomato salsa and summer vegetable dippers, oysters with apple and shallot vinegar or Gladwin chorizo with labneh and sweet kale. Those seeking a more structured meal can instead enjoy the three-course a la carte. There, you might start with wild garlic fusilli, rose veal ragu and shaved Somerset pecorino, before feasting on a heaty main such as sweet-cured confit hogget leg with sweetbreads, white beans and anchovies. To finish, you might see a gooseberry curd tart with torched lemon thyme meringue marshmallow, or baked truffled Tunworth with crackers and chutney for something a little more savoury.

In the drinks department, you won’t be surprised to hear that the Gladwin’s Nutbourne wine takes centre stage, with both still and sparkling options available. There are plenty of options from further afield, with a primary focus on France but some bottles from South Africa and Australia. Signature cocktails feature options like the Sussex 75, which combines Whitley Neil rhubarb and ginger gin, fresh lemon and Nutty Wild sparkling wine, and the ‘shedspresso’ martini. A short selection of local beers and ciders is on hand for those seeking a lighter sip, while mocktails are also available for those not drinking alcohol.