TERRA at Rockliffe Hall

James Close doesn't hang around. The Raby Hunt's stoves are barely cold, but the new culinary director of Rockliffe Hall is back with a bang at TERRA - a temporary residency that hints at the brilliance yet to come. Close’s reputation speaks for itself; as the former chef patron of the North East’s only two-Michelin-starred restaurant, expectations are sky-high.

First impressions of TERRA might leave you underwhelmed. The setting is stark and simple, with subtle nautical touches that feel somewhat out of place amidst the grandeur of Rockliffe Hall. It’s not a permanent placement, they’re simply making do with what they’ve got, and if we’re completely honest, the interior fades into the background once you take your first bite.

We start with sushi, a dainty piece of bluefin tuna topped with crispy onion that comes with the recommendation to eat it in one bite. We didn’t know sushi could melt in the mouth but there’s no other way to describe it, dissolving in one cohesive bite with light and fluffy rice enveloped in a wispy layer of seaweed.

High quality, well-executed simplicity takes us on a whirlwind tour around the globe, showcasing the best of land and sea, as we tuck into sushi rolls, ceviche, pan con tomate with Iberico ham; each bite more delicious than the last. Hamachi ceviche marries delicate sweetness with a kick of chilli, smoke and sharpness from charred lime. It’s a brilliant display of balanced, restrained cooking. So too is a moreish golden potato pave, whose crisp and salty layers are topped with cod roe.

Who’d have thought that a humble bowl of tomatoes would be on our list of top dishes of the year? A collection of peeled red, yellow and green tomatoes arrives swimming in oil, sprinkled with caviar, and resting on a bed of cream cheese. Simple, but incredibly effective.

There’s plenty of choice on the drinks front, and we’re kept in full supply throughout the evening, sampling cocktails, Champagne and a selection of perfectly paired wines that appear with various courses. The service is top tier, with the kind of professionalism you'd expect from a restaurant of this calibre, but with added Northern friendliness.

Prices are high, but you pay for what you get, and if you’re looking to splurge then it’s worth every penny. If this is just a pared-back preview of what James has to offer, we can hardly wait to see what the grand opening has in store next year.

Set in the sweeping 365-acre estate of five-star hotel Rockliffe Hall in county Durham, TERRA would be worth a visit for the scenery and its grandiose home alone. But with chef James Close, the former chef patron of two-Michelin-starred Raby Hunt at its helm, TERRA is a culinary destination in itself. Originally a Summer venture before opening his new restaurant in 2025, Close has extended his residency at Rockliffe Hall until December thanks to the restaurant’s success.

Due to its temporary status, TERRA’s interiors were slightly overlooked. But the grandeur of the setting, and view of the expansive grounds and golf course from the restaurant more than compensate for a slightly elementary restaurant decor.

TERRA’s menu is split into sections based on size, for diners to take the reins and, according to the menu, ‘create their own dining experience’ - all part of the more relaxed environment Close aimed to foster at TERRA. The menu has a largely Spanish-Mediterranean influence, inspired by a trip which Close took to San Sebastian before TERRA’s opening. Emulating the pintxos (small snacks eaten in Northern Spain), the menu kicks things off with a selection of smaller bites, which is arguably the most experimental section of the menu. Dishes include a slightly controversial Kabayaki eel & foie gras sushi, burnt lime hamachi ceviche, and old reliable pan con tomate with jamón ibérico.

Moving onto the larger dishes, Close’s mission to demonstrate the ‘very best of land and sea’ becomes more evident. The simple ‘tomato collection’, dover sole and steak options keep things closer to home, while carabineros prawns with chilli and garlic butter, and Close’s take on a bouillabaisse extend the reminiscence on warmer climes. The dessert selection offers a slightly more random pick n’ mix of tiramisu, tropical baked Alaska, and an Ispahan sundae, involving raspberry, rose, lychee and macaroons.

Indulging Close’s own passion for wine, and as part of his generally laid-back approach, TERRA offers a huge mix of wines by the glass, including a Coravin list, making some serious heavy-hitters available by the glass.