Revolve Brasserie

At quitting time, Broadgate Circle becomes a swirling maelstrom of post-work drinkers. Peacefully perched on the edge of said maelstrom, you’ll find the aptly named Revolve. This brasserie plans to host a rotating menu of guest chefs on the weekends, while simultaneously becoming a neighbourhood staple during the week. It’s a tall order, but similar ideas in Fitzrovia and Shoreditch have proved it can work.

We settle on the calm terrace and are soon enjoying well-made negronis. The £12.50 price tag, however, gives us a sharp reminder of the area we’re dining in. No matter, as the starters that soon follow are much better value. In particular, a £12 beef tartare is spot-on, the carmine disc supercharged with lashings of dijon and capers. From the other half of Revolve’s Franco-American heritage comes a shellfish cocktail. Packed with juicy prawns and lobster, it is a fresh, summery delight. A fruity Californian Viognier proves the perfect accomplice, happily recommended by the staff.

The quintessential brasserie dish, we would argue, is the bavette. This fibrous secondary cut is, however, dangerously easy to overcook. Case in point: our medium rare order arrives very much medium, and we need plenty of cafe de Paris mayonnaise to get through it. The Dover sole, on the other hand, is stellar. Expertly deboned tableside and bathed in samphire meunière, it reminds us why Julia Child called the dish "the most exciting meal" of her life.

A decadent yet surprisingly light creme brulee rounds things off, and we head home through the now dwindling crowds. This is a restaurant that won’t turn heads, but it doesn’t seem like that was ever the intention. Instead, Revolve deftly blends in with its surroundings. At least it does during the week, until its weekend roster of Michelin-starred guest chefs come a-knocking.

Revolve Brasserie, housed in the award-winning 100 Liverpool Street, has a pretty unusual dual offering. During the week, it serves as a lively, affordable brasserie to hungry Londoners, then hosts ticketed dinners with guest chefs on the weekend. An all-day menu takes inspiration from Paris and New York, serving up everything from rillettes to surf and turf. To accompany the food, you’ll find an exciting cocktail list as well as a selection of seasonal wines. Interior design comes from Kanvass studio, whose other work includes Brindisa in London Bridge and Porte Noire in King’s Cross.

The cocktail selection at Revolve showcases much-loved classics from all over the world. As such, you can sample everything from a French 75 to a margarita, each one prepared using top-tier spirits and liqueurs. The wine list, meanwhile, is primarily French, although you’ll find some new world entries peppered throughout. In the sparkling department, choose from a native Kingscote Estate, Ruggeri Prosecco and a couple of Pommery bottles.

In true brasserie fashion, there is a surprising amount of choice packed into the menu. Those not seeking a full meal can snack on cheese and charcuterie boards while they drink, although they would miss out on the main event. To start, there are plenty of French classics one might expect to see, including beef tartare, escargot with bone marrow butter, pate and French onion soup. Jersey Rock oysters are on offer too, with an optional Champagne pairing.

Purists can keep things French for the main with options like coq au vin or moules mariniere, although the grill is not to be missed. There, you’ll find delights like the house burger, a Scottish Black Angus cote de boeuf to share, as well as surf and turf featuring south coast lobster. Finish with a classic tarte tatin for two, here accompanied by vanilla and thyme ice cream, although other options such as Eton mess or ice cream are available too.