Ochre

Restaurants inside art galleries have been gaining momentum in the capital over the last few years, but Ochre was one of the first to lead the art-meets-food revolution. Sitting pretty on the ground floor of the National Gallery, it comes from the same team behind Muriel’s Kitchen, although this time they’ve cranked things up a notch with a sophisticated modern European menu, an inspired drinks list and a dining room set inside a neoclassical building. This is a restaurant to be taken seriously, where classic dishes are served with confidence and style, and UK-sourced produce gets some serious airtime. That is to say: Ochre is a very good restaurant serving very good food.

The dining room riffs on the restaurant’s name via a relaxing ochre-hued palate, from panelled walls painted in creamy yellow tones to vibrant velvet banquets and earthy, dried floral arrangements hanging from the ceiling. High ceilings pay tribute to the building’s grand history, while large paned windows flood the room with natural light. It’s as gorgeous as one might expect from an art gallery restaurant.

The food follows suit. A delicate tangle of Cornish crab, crunchy fennel, juicy grapefruit and glistening trout roe is a lesson in fine-tuned presentation. Next, a warming bowl of chowder served in a nourishing broth is flecked with chunky vegetables and a nicely-cooked piece of cod. There are moments where a few tweaks would take Ochre’s dishes from good to great, like some gentle adjustment to seasoning or a dash of acid here and there, but the quality of ingredients and competent level of cookery ensure these are minor hiccups. Besides, we finish with a pitch perfect chocolate fondant, and all is forgotten.

Cocktails are certainly one of Ochre’s calling cards and the one we tried was excellent, a short, lip-smacking drink inspired by Van Gogh’s ‘Wheat Field with Cypresses’ painting, made with vodka and lime cordial and served in an elegant martini glass. Yet, for all its arty inspiration and grandiose decor, Ochre doesn't feel pretentious in any way, and you certainly don't need to be an art-lover to eat here - although any foodie will appreciate the beauty of its dishes. 

Ochre is a restaurant in the National Gallery on Trafalgar Square, that serves modern European sharing plates, with a focus on provenance and seasonality. In line with the variety of guests that walk through the doors of the National Gallery everyday, Ochre's offering is wide-ranging, from large and small sharing plates for lunch and dinner, to casual brunch dishes before noon, an affordable pre-theatre menu and even a classic afternoon tea of finger sandwiches, scones and sweets.

Although the food is largely European, Ochre founders Charlotte and Sam Miller are passionate about supporting great British farmers and producers, and using British produce wherever possible and thus keeping the restaurant's carbon footprint to a minimum. The lunch menu for example, features oysters, mackerel, mussels and hake - all British - as well as British cured and fresh meats, cheeses, and Isle of Wight tomatoes. 

Though the influence and flavour combinations are European, dishes on the dinner menu are still eclectic and inventive. Cornish mackerel and sea lettuce tacos come with creme fraiche, avocado and pickled radish, and a burrata salad comes with pickled oyster mushrooms, peas, hazelnuts and watercress. Large plates include the likes of saffron fettuccine with Indian spiced ricotta, mint pesto, pickled shallots and crispy chilli, fillet of beef with morel and whisky sauce, and pan-fried monkfish with charred hispi cabbage and romesco sauce. 

There's also a separate menu section dedicated to vegetable dishes, whilst the small and large plates also include some vegan and vegetarian plates, emphasising a commitment to more sustainable vegetarian cooking at Ochre. Among the vegetarian dishes are plates like grilled asparagus with noisette mousseline, spiced tempura cauliflower with roasted garlic and turmeric aioli, and purple sprouting broccoli with salted ricotta, toasted almonds and chilli.

Ochre also has a lively cocktail bar, and a DJ booth that becomes the centre of the party for late-night events in the restaurant and gallery.