It might be a few years since 2011 MasterChef winner Tim Anderson launched his homage to the nanban tradition of Euro-influenced Japanese cuisine, using ingredients from Brixton Market, but it's never looked back. Indeed, its popularity has been strong from the off, and rightly so. A one-page menu offers crowd-pleasing curries and noodle dishes alongside ramen and gyoza. Our glass noodle salad topped with wakame and pickled radishes, and served with a sesame and yuzu dressing, was a revelation, alongside a very fresh market (vegan) tempura. Anderson’s take on yaki-udon (with cabbage, carrots, mushrooms and pickled ginger and a first-rate mayo) is a mini-masterpiece, but we’d also suggest the lazy goat ragu-men – an on-trend Indo/Caribbean fusion riff involving slow-cooked goat, curry and a seafood 'sawdust', topped with a tea-pickled egg. Service is helpful, and the thoughtful drinks list includes saké, shochu and small-batch craft beers. Our only gripe concerns the rather spartan first-floor dining room – try to bag the prime window seat on the cosier ground floor.