Only a cool-headed duo like Robin and Sarah Gill could open two restaurants within a month of each other. Maria G’s, a glitzy Italian in Kensington, came first. Just 22 days later, its younger sister was born, in the Gills' native Brixton. Here, we leave behind Robin's usual culinary stomping ground of the Mediterranean, instead aiming for something distinctly more metropolitan.
A fresh, zesty ‘ace’ cocktail serves as the perfect pre-wine sip (not to be confused with the original ace, a louche relic made with gin, Grenadine, cream and egg whites). Soon, enticing plates start to arrive at our modest table, having travelled from the even more modest kitchen. The whole place is pretty compact, but that’s part of the fun.
The smoked eel brandade is a hearty delight, with gossamer-thin pink fir crisps for dipping. Well-buttered fingers of toast, meanwhile, bear Cantabrian anchovies, balanced by a clever touch of honey. The late-harvest Savagnin in our glasses keeps pace, adding its own touch of spice to the mix.
Things get distinctly more Parisian with a pig’s head terrine. It packs a gloriously peppery punch, every bit as rustic as it sounds (the slightly tough baguette it comes with, however, feels a little too rustic). At the other end of the scale, a dainty courgette tart at first appears a touch simple. Thankfully, the pumpkin seed pesto within delivers a bomb of garlic that wins us over. Once again, the pairings are a perfect match: a bright saline skin contact, followed by a smooth Italian table wine.
Just as things are winding down, we are stunned by a blackcurrant and fig leaf choux eclair. Impossible to eat elegantly, we abandon our cutlery and indulge wholeheartedly. A final pairing of pleasingly bittersweet vermouth ties a bow on the evening. With charming service and reasonable prices to boot, Bottle & Rye has earned its place on Market Row.