A second site for Robin Gill and Aaron Potter’s modern Italian has landed on Fulham Riverside, with beautiful views overlooking the Thames. Gill has a thing for more idiosyncratic sites but this one is the best so far in our book - a gorgeous, serene spot, decked out in emerald wood panelling, red leather and marble, with an expansive terrace to boot. It’s not immediately obvious where to enter (clue, it’s via the main housing block), but once you’re in, the team makes you feel right at home.
London isn’t exactly short of Italian restaurants, and yet, it doesn’t have anything quite like Maria G’s. The menu undoubtedly has an Italian soul, but Potter and team are taking it a step further, combining broader Mediterranean and British ideas to create some really fun, exciting new dishes.
Take for example a gorgeous ravioli, which is packed so full of Orkney scallop and Devon crab that it has a flying saucer roundness to it, before being dunked in a wonderful, murky shellfish bisque. Where many Italian restaurants would just serve you a good burrata, Maria G’s changes up the textures with burrata fritti and a golden raisin mostarda - a combo that conjures the essence of Sicily, but still delivers something fresh and interesting.
Even in the basics, the quality of the cooking is excellent. A focaccia shouldn’t be a tricky thing but Maria G’s focaccia is a gorgeous, light, springy slab, a perfect example of how delicious simple things can be. A main of red mullet in Puttanesca butter with winter tomato bruschetta, again, is beautifully executed, and really elevates the essential parts of what makes food around Italy’s shores so delicious.
The cocktail list is equally intelligent, with smart, dangerously drinkable takes on classic aperitivi. When summer arrives and the riverside terrace is open for business, we can’t think of anywhere better to grab a negroni sbagliato and a bite to eat.