Lulu's London

We should all be so lucky to have Lulu’s on our doorstep. When the sun is shining on this little strip of Herne Hill pavement and you’re sipping a pisco pickle under the dappled shade of a nearby tree, you could be forgiven for thinking you were on a summer Mediterranean city break. There’s something very continental about easy-going Lulu’s that is utterly charming, but where so many are all stripey top and no substance, Lulu’s really delivers on the food and drink front.

Inside you’ll find a scattering of high tables and stools, as well as plenty of window seats for the keen people-watchers among you. An Arkwright’s shop of desirable jars, tins and packets surrounds you, and staff breeze back and forth shuttling marmalade martinis and natural wines to tables. This is a restaurant where you order first, and worry about how you’ll fit everything on the table later.

The menu is compact enough that two people can get through most of it, and among London’s modish wine bar set, we reckon that Lulu’s is up there with the best. We catch Lulu’s on the perfect summer evening, which calls for a pisco pickle, a gilda and a plate of meaty Cantabrian anchovies. You could sit here with nibbles and drinks all night, but there’s some wonderful creative cooking among the larger plates too - a plate of lobster with charred hispi and sauce Vadouvan leads us both to request spoons, and we loved a sweet onion tortilla, which put many a London tortilla to shame.

Throw in a considered wine list, an exceptional £5 black sesame semifreddo and overall good vibes, and it’s no wonder that Lulu’s packs the pavements on most evenings. Like many of London’s wine bars the bill can start to rack up if you’re here with a big appetite, but Lulu’s certainly won’t leave you feeling empty.

The quirky, red-floored Lulu’s leads a double life as a delicatessen shop by day and a restaurant and wine bar by night. Located in the peaceful Herne Hill - a short drive from Brixton - you can take your sandwich ‘to go’ and enjoy it in Brockwell Park, just a five-minute walk away. 

There are various lunchtime options available, such as the sandwiches, which are made using house focaccia, generous slabs of ciabatta and other freshly baked breads and can include a variety of fillings from the reliable ham, relish and mayo combo to the enticing salami and roasted aubergine pairing. Bowls of salad are piled high on the counter and can be served in either a large or small salad box. The shelves of beautifully packaged olive oil, skilfully crafted pasta and a variety of condiments may have you leaving with a sizable goodie bag.  

The slick transformation from breezy casual deli to buzzy romantic restaurant involves clearing away the days remains and lighting candles to signify the night’s approach. The menu evolves constantly and boasts an array of seasonal dishes that have previously taken the form of melon gazpacho served with lobster and cucumber or steak tartare with caviar, mustard leaf and scallop roe. The restaurant offers both a lengthy wine list and a generous selection of cocktails that will be prepared in front of you using fresh and flavoursome ingredients.  

Lulu’s shares not only its Danish chef, Lasse Peterson, with neighbouring big sister restaurant Llewellyn’s but also its relaxed and fresh atmosphere. The restaurant has an open kitchen, which adds to the approachable, friendly vibe of the intimate venue and there is both table and window seating where you can enjoy your meal or a glass of wine whilst watching the world go by, making it an ideal location for people watching.