It’s ‘olé’ rather than ‘cheers’ at this new incarnation of the defunct Kings Arms pub in the centre of Hitchin. Los Reyes “fully embraces Spain”, especially when it comes to sourcing authentic ingredients. The result is a “wonderful” eatery serving up a big selection of “interesting” tapas and more besides, from mojama (air-cured tuna) with caperberries, sweet pickled onions and almonds to morcilla croqetas with apple purée and crushed pine nuts or truffled ‘patatas’ with green harissa alioli. If you fancy something bigger, try the whole salt-baked fish or a rack of sticky, slow-cooked Ibérico pork ribs. To drink, Meantime ales and lagers add a pubby note to proceedings, otherwise browse the selection of sherries and “great” Spanish wines on offer. Readers are also quick to praise the friendly, helpful staff, and you can reserve tables on the sheltered courtyard at the weekends – in short, “a gem”.