Auberge du Lac seems right at home amongst the picture-perfect Brocket Hall Estate; a sweeping expanse of green that’s befitting of the restaurant's soil-to-plate ethos. There’s something rather special housed within this former hunting lodge, and it’s all thanks to the creative artistry of chef John Barber’s menus, combined with hyper-seasonal produce grown on-site by kitchen gardener Lucy Hawkins.
Attentive servers guide us through the evening, more than happy to talk through the wine pairings that accompany each dish. Whilst not everything flows completely seamlessly - the odd dish takes a detour via the wrong table - there’s a relaxed atmosphere to the space that eschews the occasional stuffiness of fine dining.
Our evening begins on the umbrella-covered terrace - a delightful summer’s eve that sees us on the banks of the serene Broadwater Lake. We’re just a few steps away from the restaurant’s gardens, the produce of which will play a key role in tonight’s meal. Whether you order from the a la carte, or work your way through the tasting menu, each guest’s experience begins with a selection of welcome snacks; bite-sized morsels that come beautifully presented in a planter box. A golden duck leg bon bon, topped with an orange gel, disappears in one bite, closely followed by a melt-in-the-mouth stick of tomato panisse.
The bar has been set high, but each course continues to impress, not least the bread course. A fluffy tomato loaf arrives in a cast iron dish, straight from the oven and heavily salted, with an embossed butter puck on the side. It’s a simple thing done right, but good bread often signals good things.
Pristine white plates continue to arrive, each with creative and innovative twists that continue to impress. A crab risotto is so creamy and light, careful not to overpower with added citrus bursts of a lemon gel. A BBQ monkfish tail is served swimming in a rich bone marrow velouté and topped with ribbons of sweet, pickled cucumber and dots of caviar. Each element is individually excellent, but together it’s spectacular.
Whilst it may be tucked away on the Brocket Hall Estate, Auberge du Lac is a destination in its own right, successfully uniting homegrown produce with refined, creative cookery.