Food used to be an afterthought at art galleries. Visitors would be expected to make do with soup and an overpriced sandwich at best. Now, however, things are different. Gallery restaurants are becoming well-known in their own right, and a post-exhibition three-course meal is no longer a fantasy. And no gallery, one could argue, is better placed for a knockout restaurant than Tate Modern. Its combination of height and proximity to the river certainly lay the groundwork for success. All that’s left is to try the menu.
The space itself is pared-back with Scandi touches, although diners are scarcely looking anywhere except through the floor-to-ceiling windows. Following suit, we soak in the spectacular panorama of St Paul’s, the river and its various boats and bridges. Despite the restaurant's fullness, the service is friendly and attentive and we are soon sipping on well-mixed negronis.
A very on-trend ash-baked leek dish gets things started, accompanied by a pleasing entourage of romesco, sour cream and parmesan. Alongside, a far more traditional cured trout number arrives atop a bed of buttermilk, with a nice hit of tang from fermented radish and pickled onion. Both are effective, if a smidge on the straightforward side.
Next, a courgette main keeps to the summertime theme of fresh flavours, with a hit of chilli, crunch of pomegranate and nuttiness of tahini coalescing into a moreish trio. Brixham hake, meanwhile, comes perfectly cooked and paired with a silky, forest-green parsley sauce. The creamy leek fondue is a lovely addition, although the slightly bare mussels nearby feel a touch neglected. No matter, because we are soon diving into a dangerously decadent chocolate tart, contrasted by brittle salted caramel popcorn and sour creme fraiche.
As art gallery meals go, this is certainly better than most. Not only this, but £37 for three tasty courses and a killer view feels like great value.