Leroy

Leroy was a cornerstone of an upstart Shoreditch dining scene once upon a time, one that included the dearly missed Oklava just over the road. Whilst others have come and gone, this breezy little bistro seems to survive the test of time, and even the loss of a Michelin star that one could argue it never really needed.

That’s no remark on the quality of this simple spot, but more on the style. Leroy is streamlined and sleek, bordering on workmanlike at times, but there’s simple beauty to be found in the timber tabletops and wine bottles lining every shelf and windowsill. A Mediterranean breeze rolls through the restaurant from window to door, as friendly staff ferry around seasonal plates. Perhaps once there was a little confusion about what Leroy was, but this restaurant feels at ease with itself now, no longer hanging under the double-edged sword of that star.

Leroy is right up there with some of the best bistros in the city, and dishes here care only for ingredients and flavour. A plate of asparagus - so fresh it needs the swiftest of blanches - arrives dressed in brown shrimp and a slick of brown butter. It has texture, flavour, a killer combination of shrimp and asparagus - it’s the perfect little bistro plate, at the peak of its seasonal powers.

These are the little gems that make Leroy special. There’s some more technical cooking on offer too, for example, a bulbous chicken raviolo, served with girolles and sweetcorn and a puddle of gorgeous chicken sauce. Someone at Leroy makes a damn good sauce. Like much of what we eat, it gets devoured quickly (if you’re sharing, you need to be quick off the mark).

Not everything reaches the same stratospheric peaks as the aforementioned, but with a negroni sbagliato - or something from the excellent wine list - in hand, and a giant chicken raviolo in front of you, you won’t care much.

Leroy is a Michelin-starred bistro and wine bar in the heart of Shoreditch, offering up creative dishes from head chef Simon Shand and a phenomenal wine list from sommelier Bradley Tomlinson. Here, you can get a surprisingly affordable lunch, stop in for a glass of wine after work, or feast and drink through the evening. 

Classic wine bar-style snacks are a great place to start, with options like Nocellara olives, devilled eggs and charcuterie boards. From there, however, the menu transitions straight into the main offering. Dishes at Leroy are punchy, unique and richly flavoured. You will still see foie gras here, perhaps in a terrine with rhubarb, accompanied by a radish salad, or vitello tonnato with capers and crispy shallots. Vegetables are treated well here, so you might find purple broccoli, laden with hazelnuts and bottarga, or chicory with walnut and sheep's cheese. Larger, meatier plates might feature pollock with monk's beard and cockles or spring lamb with glazed rib and asparagus. 

Finally, you can end your meal with a similarly punchy dessert offering, which could take the form of rhubarb and custard, chocolate with walnuts and blood orange or a cheesecake with vanilla and lemon. Naturally, there is a brilliant cheese selection here, so don't miss that if you want a savoury conclusion to your meal. 

Groups can enjoy a truly comprehensive feasting menu here, which offers a selection of starters, before moving to whole meat and fish, which could be a duck or turbot, and finally the day's desserts. Those wanting to spare no expense can add oysters and cheese, maxing out the culinary offering here at Leroy. The price of the food and wine here includes service and they don't accept cash. Booking is recommended, as you might expect from a compact, Michelin-starred opening in Shoreditch.