Beautiful Bistro Freddie seems to have established itself as one of London’s most in-demand bookings. The food is excellent (more on that later) but we suspect the primary calling card is the flickering, candlelit interior - just about light enough to be Insta-friendly, but still moody enough to feel sultry and special. It’s a Parisian paradise in so many ways, dressed down, but still ever so elegant, with white tablecloths matching the staff’s starched white worker jackets.
If the decor wasn’t enough to entice you in, the menu just might. Choices immediately get tricky among the starters - chicken liver parfait on Guinness bread, brawn croquettes with gribiche, and steak tartare on fried bread. Whatever you choose, you’ll have to save room for a Bistro Freddie flatbread - fast becoming a signature. On the day ours came with rich, melting chunks of beef cheek and a liberal brush of beef fat. It proves a perfect partner to a bright, fruity bottle of Beaujolais.
There’s a self-assuredness about the cooking at Bistro Freddie that we love. Among the mains, a dish of chicken and artichoke stands out for its resolute confidence; it's just a beautifully cooked chicken leg, sporting angry char marks from the grill and sitting in a glossy pool of Marsala sauce. Every element is perfect. A crispy cod cheek is squished into an English muffin, with a comfort blanket of eel mayonnaise. It has the feel of a last minute kitchen experiment but it is utterly brilliant, worthy of being a signature dish in other restaurants.
Desserts stick to tried-and-tested comfort puds, which you may struggle to have room for, but are well-executed nonetheless. You might have guessed, but we’re rather enamoured with Bistro Freddie, and pleased to say that it’s far more than just a pretty face. The wine list is solid, the chips are excellent, as are the pies. HAM staff are always well-drilled and knowledgeable. This is a restaurant that has every base covered - no wonder it’s so hard to get a table.