You’ll find Kahani’s modest entrance in the backstreets of Sloane Square, nestled among smart red brick townhouses. From there, the journey continues - down a flight of stairs and into a high-ceilinged basement dining room, replete with velvet chairs and macrame chandeliers. Your mileage may vary on basement dining rooms but Kahani’s is lovely, though some may bemoan the lack of natural light.
Peter Joseph is no stranger to upmarket Indian dining - he was head chef of Tamarind in Mayfair before this, and he brings that wealth of experience to a sizeable menu at Kahani. That menu is divided into small plates, grilled items and curries. The former are intriguing - Joseph’s idea combines Indian flavours, British ingredients and a tapas eating style - but aside from a delicious papdi chaat of spiced chickpeas, sweet yoghurt, berries and tamarind chutney, we’d recommend jumping straight to the grilled dishes.
This is where the real fun begins - tandoor lamb chops rich with Kashmiri chilli and warm clove, and fist-sized Malabar prawns with angry, blackened edges. Curries are delicious too - we tried a slow-braised Kashmiri lamb shank and Keralan chicken curry with a hit of fennel and poppy seed. Both were superb. Rice - so often the sign of a conscientious kitchen - is perfectly steamed and fluffy, and breads arrive still-warm from the tandoor.
Kahani’s wine collection is substantial and the restaurant has added a few innovative house cocktails to the list, including the refreshing Winter Royale (sloe gin, rosemary syrup, lemon, pomegranate, Champagne).
In general, Kahani perhaps isn’t breaking any boundaries and you’re unlikely to find much that you don’t know, but it’s reassuring, comforting, familiar. London has always had a soft spot for upmarket Indian fine dining and Kahani delivers that with a more easy going air. Are there good, more affordable Indian restaurants? Sure, but if you’re looking for something high quality in this area, Kahani certainly fits the bill.