Steak is never not a treat (unless, of course, you’re vegetarian) yet it can be trickier than you’d hope to find it fairly handled and given its due respect. A restaurant that is yet to let us down in this regard is Hawksmoor – the sustainably minded mini chain of steak restaurants that stretches from London to Edinburgh.
The Scottish outpost is in the very heart of the capital and finds its home within the The Edinburgh Grand hotel. The restaurant is in what used to be a banking hall and the sky-high ceilings, columned walls, dark wooden furniture and candlelight go no way to dispel the idea that you’re stepping back in time to a much more respectable decade. This is a destination with a sense of occasion.
The throng of people who fill the dining room with their date night chatter bring the kind of buzz and atmosphere that’s hard to recreate outside of big city venues and the staff never skip a beat despite the unrelenting tide of diners.
Plump scallops in their shell come first, grilled until golden and topped with white port and garlic. There’s also some pretty fancy scampi with tartare sauce where the protein has been replaced with sweet and meaty Scottish langoustine tails. For mains a kilo of the best Porterhouse comes out in its very own cast iron skillet, with a wonderfully seasoned deep brown crust and a blushing centre. Rich and robustly flavoured, it’s nearly too good to pour a sauce over. Although if someone twists your arm the bone marrow gravy has all the intensity of the pan juices and then some. Chips and macaroni are non-negotiables on the side while a salad might go some way to relieving your guilt on the five-a-day front.
An unnecessary but ultimately inevitable pudding follows – Hawksmoor’s famous STP. Soft sponge covered in buttery caramel sauce and topped with ice cream and custard sums up the situation nicely. Where other small plate spots prosper, there’s no denying that all-out classics done well can be the greatest dining indulgence of all.