Glitzy light fittings and gold cutlery may suggest fine-dining, but the casual Indian menu at this Montcalm restaurant is very accessible. We’d recommend ordering five or six of the ‘small bites’ between two and then one large dish each. Good shouts include battered cod revitalised with a sour mango dip, a dense sweet potato ‘bomb’ packed with chickpeas and a lightly spiced chilli jam, and smoky chicken tikka with a cooling mint sauce – and be sure to order the signature roomali roti, a soft, warm flatbread folded like a handkerchief (hence the restaurant’s name) which is perfect for mopping up any sauces. The larger offerings are more pedestrian (butter chicken in a creamy tomato sauce, slow-braised goat with keema, etc), while to drink, there are cocktails and non-alcoholic lassis. Hankies doesn’t quite manage to shake off the constraints of its corporate hotel setting, but with friendly staff and every dish under £10, it’s worth a punt for cheap and casual Indian.