Lurra

Across the road from sister Donostia, this Basque grill restaurant is best known for its “delicious lumps of old cow” – the 14-year-old Galician steak which causes intense excitement among beef geeks. But even without the charcoal-grilled centrepiece (or its equally excellent pescatarian equivalent of whole turbot with Txakoli sauce), Lurra promises plenty of thrills. It’s particularly big on fish; try Cornish monkfish with moscatel and garlic sauce, grilled octopus with piquillo peppers or courgette flower stuffed with cod brandade. Fries with smoked paprika and aïoli go with everything, while desserts feature home-made ice cream, a simple milk pudding served with orange-blossom honey and exemplary chocolate fondant. Enjoy it all in a laid-back space spread over two floors, with plenty of places at the counter and a bright dining room done out in ashy-pale wood and marble. The wine list benefits from the owners’ expertise in the import business.