Elystan Street

Cool, contemporary interiors and a Chelsea location might deter curious first-timers from making the journey to Elystan Street, but make no mistake: this is an address to remember. Charismatic staff immediately put diners at ease with the warmth of their welcome and help set the tone for a meal of comforting, familiar flavours with surprisingly innovative undertones.

The attitude of ‘nothing is too much’ isn’t unusual at this level of dining, but here personality – both in the team and on the plate – seems to be fostered and championed for a coupling of two of our favourite things: luxury and a light touch.

Owners Philip Howard and Rebecca Mascarenhas’ years of experience on the restaurant scene with the likes of The Square, Sonny’s and Kitchen W8 shines through in the menu which pushes things just far enough to be interesting while retaining recognisable combinations.

To begin, mellow veg is paired with a smooth cashew nut hummus dressed in a robustly savoury curry oil and presented in a graphic, colourful style. Mains, meanwhile, bring one of the restaurant’s signature dishes (the brief removal of which from the menu prompted the most complaints the restaurant had ever received) in a decadent twice-baked cheese soufflé. This puffed up, golden quivering cloud comes accompanied by melty leeks, button mushrooms and truffle and is a lesson in all-out indulgence.

Elsewhere a dish which essentially equates to chicken and mash was a masterclass in elevating humble ingredients through precise handling. Buttery potatoes, intensely flavoured crispy chicken skin and a wonderfully robust sauce made for easy, euphoric eating.

There’s a line-up of seasonal sweets on offer, although one combination has stood the test of time whatever the weather. Chocolate, peanuts and caramel are combined in a bar akin to a very, very posh Snickers and served with hazelnut ice cream for an end to your meal that we’d imagine few could find fault with.

Prices are in line with the restaurant’s Chelsea address, with mains clocking in at around the £30 mark, but the quality of the food combined with a well-rounded drinks list, the upbeat service and the Scandi-style dining room with dusty blue chairs, low hanging lights and bistro muslin curtains alleviates any concerns that it might not be worth the splurge.

Michelin-starred Elystan Street is the work of acclaimed chef Phil Howard, whose previous restaurant The Square (opened in 1991) held two Michelin stars for 17 years. This is his slightly more casual follow-up and has now established itself as a Chelsea essential - the sort of restaurant to go to for supper on the way home or something more challenging for a special occasion. 

The dining room is a relaxing space that boasts a soft-hued colour palette of blues and pinks, warm wooden floors and lots of natural light. The menus, meanwhile, are overseen by head chef Aaron Potter, who is one of Phil’s early protégées and brings with him a wealth of classical training. There are both a la carte and tasting menus available, with options for both lunch (there is a set menu) and dinner.  

Examples of dishes might include the likes of terrine of dover sole with skate wing, smoked eel, tarama, pickled cucumber and lemon to start, sweet and sour breast of duck with a tarte fine of caramelised endive, burnt orange and kohlrabi for main course and a dessert comprised of a chocolate, peanut and caramel bar with hazelnut ice cream. If you opt for the six-course tasting menu, you will be able to sample some of the restaurant’s greatest dishes (the menu is titled ‘six of the best’ after all), with an optional wine pairing available if liked.  

If you’re not sampling the tasting menu, there is an excellent wine list to choose from which can be ordered by the glass, half bottle or bottle. A range of European and international wines are on the menu, with the generous choice meaning you’re bound to find something you like. The restaurant also mixes up a selection of mean cocktails, with many fine London beers on offer, too