You can hardly miss Crispin’s jaunty angular pagoda should you wander down to the end of Artillery Lane as you explore the surrounds of Spitalfields Market. From a distance this seems more likely to be home to a post-modern art exhibition, but inside, head chef Lewis de Haas and team are creating artful plates instead.
Inside Crispin is equally unconventional - a room stuffed with obtuse and acute angles that, though quite pleasing on the eye, make some tables rather preferable to others. Plenty of foliage provides a nice pop of green to offset the otherwise clean minimalism of the dining room itself, and the surrounding glass means that the restaurant is lovely and bright at all times, as are the staff. In summer, a glorious outdoor terrace catches plenty of sun and is, unsurprisingly, buzzing with eaters and drinkers in sunglasses.
On the food front, Crispin seems to get steadily better and better each time we’re here. Classic menu items are as good as ever - croquettes are a staple on modern British menus these days but Crispin’s Cheddar and pickled walnut ketchup version takes some beating. Likewise, plump mussels in shells come awash with a rich, spicy ‘nduja cream, pickled onion petals and gremolata - another dish that shows lovely balance without going overboard. It slips down easily with a crystal clear orange wine Margarita.
Everything is fresh, thoughtful and measured, taking peak seasonal ingredients and presenting them in arrangements that are just as delicious as they are aesthetically pleasing. Wild garlic tagliatelle with mushroom and asparagus is a lovely bit of cooking, a nest of bouncy pasta, swaddled in starchy sauce and vegetables. Even the white chocolate panna cotta with pistachio and rhubarb, which could so easily be too much at the end of a meal, is perfectly set and gently balanced between sweet and tart. There is the odd dish that feels like it’s still evolving, but this is the nature of hyper-seasonal cooking sometimes, and Crispin’s highs far outweigh any more middling dishes. When the sun is belting down, there’s nowhere we’d rather be than on that terrace with a glass of cool white wine and a couple of croquettes.