Arguably the prize attraction of Belgravia’s new Ice Factory development, Cornus has rounded up a stellar team of industry all-stars to look after every aspect of the restaurant operation. Former Angler chef Gary Foulkes has been quietly cooking some of the best food in London for a decade. Pastry chef Kelly Cullen is one of the UK’s best and brightest pastry talents. David O’Connor and sommelier Melania Battiston have led the line at superb Medlar for many years. But despite having Real Madrid talent levels all over the pitch, the restaurant isn’t falling over itself to show off - there’s an air of serenity here, of calm and confidence, even just weeks after opening.
Cornus also has a bit of exclusivity to it, and not just because of the prices (more on that later). A lift whisks you away from the pleasant Eccleston Yards courtyard, far from the reaches of Victoria’s pavement pounders, into a lofty, air conditioned dining room of white tablecloths, diffused natural light and Matisse-style art prints. Behind beige net curtains is a beautiful terrace, still waiting to be unveiled to the public. Quiet luxury is the vibe.
A quick glance at the menu might set your eyes watering at the prices, but Cornus is a specific sort of restaurant - an old-school safe space where you know exactly what you’re getting for your money. The cooking is absolutely superb, in fact, almost perfect - though some will fairly say that a £50 plate of roast chicken, langoustines and truffle sweetcorn shouldn’t be any less than perfect. But this isn’t just chicken with langoustines - that chicken is from Landes, and the langoustines are fine, fat specimens from Scotland. If you want the best of the best in a nice, glossy, air-conditioned terrace restaurant in Belgravia, this is the price you pay.
Foulkes dips into an old bag of tricks for a few other dishes, showing off the delicate touch with fish and seafood that made Angler similarly superb. Who can say no to hand-rolled spaghetti topped with lobster and caviar, for example? Spare a moment (and space in your dessert belly) for a magnificent brown sugar custard tart, cut with such precision that the sides look like obsidian.
There are a growing number of restaurants in London where you can easily drop big money. At Cornus, at least, you’re guaranteed to leave satisfied.