Ganymede

The name of the Ganymede’s parent group, The Lunar Pub Company, is as close as this gets to having anything in common with your local boozer. Despite the casks outside and the central bar taking up half the available space, this is very much a restaurant, and a really good one at that.

The menu shirks off trendy small plates for a classic three course selection, which is comforting when you realise you don’t want to share what’s on offer anyway (and also feels appropriate for the area: this is Belgravia not Bow, after all). Chewy sourdough helps you mull things over to kick things off, and makes a good foil for a smoky Old Fashioned. The standout starter – which was helpfully recommended by our waitress – was a plate of ink-rich cuttlefish risotto, topped with sweet slices of the meat and spiked with chilli and bright lemon zest. On a cold January night, it was about as close as we’ve come to the feeling of summer sun in a long time.

For mains, rich, slow cooked beef cheeks came on top of seriously buttery mash, topped with little textural lifts from sprout leaves and chestnuts, plus a proper portion of glossy gravy covering everything in robust roasting flavours. It’s the kind of cooking you hope Britain is known for. A vegetarian polenta and aubergine main was a little all over the place with international flavours – and potentially lacked different textures – but was no less delicious for its loss of identity.

The decor feels fresh but timeless with panelling and dimly illuminated statement lighting creating a snug atmosphere. In these surrounds we couldn’t help but enjoy the mix of families, dates and groups of friends who contributed to the completely un-stuffy vibe - a tone set by the team who clearly care about why they’re there.

Old school classics, refreshed with modern techniques and delivered to exacting standards in a cosy dining room a stone’s throw from Victoria? We might be rerouting our commute on a regular basis from here on in.

From the team behind The Hunter’s Moon gastropub in Fulham (aka The Lunar Pub Company) comes its second venture Ganymede, located on the swish streets of Belgravia. It’s named after the largest moon of Jupiter and comes from duo Oliver Marlowe and Hubert Beatson-Hird, who combined possess a wealth of hospitality experience. Ganymede offers a modern twist on a classic British boozer, although really, it’s a far cry from a standard pub in pretty much every respect. It actually calls itself a dining bar and restaurant, where diners can sample elegant British dishes and ingredients in a cosy yet smart setting.

Wooden surfaces inject the restaurant with a warm and traditional feel, as do brown leather booth seats, while large walled mirrors and hanging exposed light bulbs at an on-trend element to the décor. The kitchen is headed up by Daniel Mertl, who previously worked at Michelin starred Chez Bruce and The Glasshouse, so you know already that you’re in strong hands. There are a la carte, set lunch and Sunday menus as well as a selection of bar snacks if you’re nipping in for a drink and nibble.

Examples of starters include rabbit and pistachio terrine, toasted rye bread and burnt onion emulsion; beef cheek lasagna, celeriac puree, button mushrooms and red wine jus; truffled cauliflower soup, cep and comté scone. While main dishes quail and foie gras wellington, creamed potatoes and roast shallot and fillet of Cornish hake, white bean puree, roast salsify, burnt caper and lemon dressing.

Desserts are just as pleasing and feature chocolate fondant, crème fraiche sorbet, caramel and hazelnut and apricot and hazelnut tart with praline parfait.

There’s a generous wine list which you can order by the glass, half bottle or full bottle and which range from all over the world including new world wines. If you’re feeling lavish, diners can also order a selection of reds, whites, roses and champagnes from a magnum menu.