Expanding a restaurant is hard. Many fall victim to overstretching, resulting in enormous menus they can’t possibly deliver on. Thanks to gradual expansion, Brindisa is doing well thus far, although some say their experience varies from branch to branch. But, if there’s one place where chain restaurants can thrive, it’s South Kensington. So, that’s where we go.
Those who like a lively buzz and don’t mind queueing should stick to the Borough site. This is a more sedate environment, well-suited to families rather than just couples. There are upsides to this: you can actually book a table, stretch out both arms and maintain a conversation without screaming over your croquetas. Speaking of, the croquetas are as good here as any of the other sites, the crisp shell collapsing to exude their cheesy innards with ease. The Padron peppers, however, have been overzealously salted. Thankfully, a zippy ruby gimlet alleviates the salinity.
So far, this is familiar, albeit delicious territory. We push the boat a little further and are rewarded handsomely. A roast pumpkin salad with manchego custard is a warming autumnal delight, while the crispy fried goat’s cheese with orange blossom honey juxtaposes savoury and sweet marvellously. However, it’s larger dishes that really get it right. Charred Galician octopus arrives on a sedan of crisp potatoes, themselves swimming in a punchy mojo rojo. Elsewhere, a show-stopping oxtail comes on the bone with a silky celeriac mash. We revel in the primal delight of gnawing meat off the vertebrae, leaving little room for dessert. This proves not to be a huge loss, as the desserts we do try are very much an afterthought.
We spend about £50 a head on food, which is expensive for tapas but cheap for Kensington. For a chain restaurant with this large a menu, Brindisa gets a lot right. But to grow any further, like salting Padron peppers, will require a light touch.