Brasserie Forty 4 was in the vanguard of new-wave brasseries to hit Leeds and remains one of the best, happily situated on the banks of the river Aire in a former grain warehouse. The look is bright, light and modern in both the dining and bar areas. One menu fits all (with a 25% discount at lunch), and the kitchen might set the ball rolling with chicken liver parfait or goats’ cheese and baby beetroot salad with minted pea shoots, before delivering mains of confit duck leg with mash and swede, slow-braised pork belly with port jus or a warming dish of ox-cheek faggots wrapped in savoy cabbage with winter vegetable stew; there’s a board of daily fish specials, too. To finish, try rum baba with white rum, lemon and vanilla syrup or Brasserie Forty 4’s ‘famous’ chocolate fondue served with marshmallows.