A breezy, attractively priced new-wave Italian wine bar and off licence, Bottles nails the ‘so now’ look and location. Repurposed woods and understated vintage styling help do the job, aided by high communal tables and a slouchy covered terrace on to Old Spitalfields Market. The wine list (collated by owners Daniele Marano and Franco Mancini, of SE1’s Bottles & Battles) also comes up trumps, featuring 40-odd well-kept by-the-glass selections: investable Italians interspersed with other EU worthies. Italian pop-up peeps, Sood Family, are on kitchen duty. A naturally-cloudy sparkler, Malibran Sottoriva, makes an inspired pairing with satin-soft San Daniele prosciutto; and crisp, organic Sicilian Catarratto (with notes of burnt orange peel, olive oil and melon) cuts through the creamy sweetness of a red-pepper sauce accompanying tender octopus, celery, potatoes and olives. On a Mediterranean-hot night, we’d no room for tiramisu sbagliato made with apricot jam and caprino (goats’) cheese – a pity.