What was Sushi des Artistes has been re-branded as a showcase for impeccable Wagyu and Kobe beef sourced from Japanese farms. The headline acts are now thinly sliced sukiyaki and shabu-shabu hotpots in dashi broth with vegetables, tofu and noodles, all supported by an assortment of sushi rolls, sashimi, tempura and zensai appetisers such as takogeso-age (fried octopus with chilli) or sunomono (wakame and cucumber salad with vinegar dressing). Nibbles of edamame, homemade pickles or kamaboko fishcakes with wasabi and soy dip pique the appetite, while desserts include red-bean and chocolate toffee with mascarpone. The interiors, meanwhile, are unchanged – so brace yourself for a flamboyant mix of striped wallpaper, lampshades shaped like bowler hats, tartan tabletops and louche boudoir trappings, with Euro-pop coming out of the speakers. Service is friendly, and the cool bar area is ideal for a few cosy cocktails.