“I have been eating at this place for my entire adult life” admits one Nottingham local, adding that he loves “the attention to detail, the lovely ‘library’ bar and the perfect service” on offer at the World Service. Oriental artefacts, candelabra, mirrors, leather sofas, a palette of neutral colours and, best of all, a sheltered, oriental-style patio garden set the tone in this modern annexe of centuries-old Newdigate House. Staff are “efficient yet welcoming”, while the menu promises a raft of “sensibly priced” seasonal dishes ranging from sea bream escabèche with saffron shallots and compressed oranges or a mini pigeon and duck liver Wellington to wild sea bass with crispy squid, courgette and aubergine relish or herb-crusted lamb loin accompanied by chou farci, peas, baby gem and dauphinoise potato. There are some attractive desserts too, perhaps caramelised milk chocolate ganache or a trendy vegan riff involving matcha green tea, whipped tofu, jackfruit, lychee and lime consommé. Back-up comes from a “comprehensive” drinks list.