It’s been through several incarnations over the years, but this Islington boozer has now reverted to its original name and acquired a post-punk feel following its distressed Guinness- and gingerbread-toned The Exmouth Arms and The Earl of Essex among others, this studiously rough-around-the-gills rock ’n’ roller is all about beers and pizza. Order draughts as diverse as Lagunitas IPA, Beavertown Smog Rocket or Austria’s Schremser Roggenbier from a selection of 14 on tap, or peruse the mighty selection of six dozen bottled contenders. There are also some basic wines and cocktails too. To eat, choose a big thin-crusted beauty topped with artichoke, wild garlic, tomato and Gorgonzola or fennel sausage with sprouting purple broccoli, along with salads such as radish, celeriac, watercress and pecorino in dill dressing.