Stripped back to the original stonework and flagstones and decorated in calming neutrals, the Wheatsheaf is a serene, welcoming space, with solid oak tables, Lloyd Loom chairs and a couple of decent sofas by the fire. The question is, is it still a pub? Possibly not (though you can still go there for a pint), but it’s certainly a first-class restaurant. Top-quality local produce is teamed with elegance and restraint in the kitchen: pan-fried foie gras has a subtle undercurrent of sticky apples, pain d'epice crumb and parsnip puree to balance the richness of the liver. 21-day aged Hereford ribeye extracts every ounce of flavour from the cut and bolstered it with a fried duck egg and triple-cooked chips. Desserts strike a more homely note (sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream, for example) but are crafted with just as much care and attention to detail.