Originally launched as an upstairs downstairs concept with much fanfare, The George has settled into a more traditional gastropub format as of 2023. Now a single, all-day menu covers both the ground floor pub and upstairs dining rooms (previously there were separate menus for each) and The George has settled on no-nonsense pub grub, albeit executed to the standards you’d expect of owners JKS Restaurants (who also run the likes of Lyle’s, BiBi, Sabor and Gymkhana).
The menu has changed but thankfully, much of the decor has not. The George was beautifully renovated when it reopened in 2022 and the upstairs dining room is particularly lovely, resplendent in glossy forest green, with plush Georgian dining chairs, velvet banquettes, a vintage rug and restored fireplace giving the room a chic, welcoming living room vibe.
London’s gastropubs have ventured more and more into restaurant territory in recent years, but by comparison, The George keeps things pretty simple. Among the snacks there’s a black pudding Scotch Egg with a piquant Oxford sauce, a bowl of fried squid with good aioli, and steak tartare toasts with Thai basil and sesame. So far, so straightforward, but lots of good pubs get the simple things wrong, and The George gets things just right - everything is nicely seasoned, the Scotch Egg has a nice jammy centre, the steak tartare toasts are piled high.
The same is true of mains, which include a hefty chunk of fish and good chips for a very reasonable £13, and an excellent beef and Guinness pie, which is rich and meaty enough that we can forgive it being a lonely pastry lid, rather than a proper pie. Meanwhile, bar staff downstairs make a punchy Negroni, and manager Conor Daly is an expert Guinness-puller. There’s nothing flashy about The George - if you want a gastropub with flair you might want to go elsewhere - but if you want all the best bits of a no-frills pub experience, you’ll be very happy here indeed.