Set up by celeb chef Aiden Byrne and his wife, this renovated hostelry is now “Lymm’s crowing jewel” – a self-styled ‘British grill’ and “family gastropub”, with an infectiously friendly vibe and a relaxed, sophisticated look (think chunky wooden tables, neutral colours and high-backed leather chairs). Chops, steaks and burgers cooked over coconut-husk charcoal take centre stage, but Byrne’s head chef also leavens his menus with nostalgia and tricksy touches – from cured salmon salad with pickled mooli and wasabi or grilled beetroot and goats’ cheese risotto to corn-fed chicken with peas à la française or roast cod loin with lemon gnocchi, spring greens and salt-cod beignet. After that, pick something indulgent such as chocolate fondant or coffee pannacotta with hazelnut biscotti and mascarpone. Kids have their own menus, there’s breakfast at the weekend and mighty Sunday roasts are carved at the table; also don’t miss the “beautiful small plates” served in the bar. Fans of Byrne’s cooking should note that he also runs the high-profile Manchester House, in the ‘rainy city’.