Despite its rather dour setting beside a canal on the outskirts of Pontypridd, this brave little gastropub is well worth a visit for its great-value food. There are boozy echoes of the past in the rather prosaic, carpeted bar, but the restaurant area (mostly housed in a large, clean-lined conservatory) is fresh & bright, & has a greater sense of occasion – think blackboard menus, bare floors & pine furniture. From starters such as organic white onion tartlet with watercress, pickled beetroot & carrot, to main courses of 12-hour confit belly of Welsh pork with caramelised Cox’s apple sauce, braised red cabbage & creamy grain-mustard mash, the cooking is modern, with sprightly flavours, fine ingredients & plenty of flair. If you’re in a hurry, drop by for a bowl of homemade soup or a posh burger. The locals love it, & rightly so.