About
Owners Young’s have clearly splashed out to refurbish this landmark inn: traditionally a source of Dutch courage for nervy grooms about to get hitched at the Town Hall opposite. The smart saloon bar and grand dining room now sport a mix of arts and crafts and faux-Edwardian styles – a compatible marriage – but clandestine affairs are better suited to the intimate, dark Jones’ wine bar in the cellar. Brews by Young’s and Meantime head the draughts; wine includes a light, rewarding Kiwi Riesling, one of two dozen available by the glass. To eat, choose between bar snacks of top-notch sausage rolls, fondue pots or sharing boards, and a modern-Brit pub grub menu in the dining room where Cumberland sausage with bubble and squeak lines up alongside lentil and almond burgers, and herb-crusted Cornish lemon sole. Outside is a covered courtyard, but newly-weds might well head straight for the upstairs bedrooms (£79).