Secreted away in the tiny hamlet of Frithsden, surrounded by Ashridge National Trust Estate, this “fabulous country pub” was one of early contenders in the ‘gastro’ stakes hereabouts and it still comes “highly recommended”. Local, free-range and organic produce are used to good effect on a daily menu that divides up into ‘small’ and ‘big’ plates. Bubble 'n' squeak with oak-smoked bacon, poached egg and hollandaise has been a feature since day one; otherwise, the kitchen rings the changes – from soused mackerel with kohlrabi, confit fennel and apple to rabbit pot-au-feu with smoked mortadella. Char-grilled rib-eye steaks and local sausages are big sellers, while desserts might include dark chocolate delice with peanut brittle and salted caramel mascarpone. Ales are sourced locally, and the wine list is a well-chosen slate with just about everything offered by the glass. Our tip: if you have a taste for the grape, Frithsden Vineyard is just a stroll away.