Temper Shoreditch

Temper’s smoke-loving concept isn’t anything new, but nor is it easy to do well. Cooking meat over fire is a trend that’s been making waves in London for the last few years, and Temper was certainly at the forefront of the open-fire cooking revolution. Even now, very few in the capital do it with such aplomb.  

This Shoreditch opening is the largest of its smokehouses, spanning two floors with a dedicated cocktail bar – a first for the brand. We were seated at a counter in the basement where the heat of the open kitchen's flame-licked grates warmed our faces and extremities. To our left: a carnivorous display of raw steaks waiting for the grill. Straight ahead: a pig’s head hanging lamely from chains above the fire pit. The squeamish can look away now, for dining at Temper is bold, in-your-face and unapologetic. 

The dishes are made for sharing tapas-style and arrive as and when they’re ready. One of the best things we tried came first: crispy cube-sized pieces of pork finished with an addictive sticky glaze. Goat tacos, for which the restaurant is famed, were good, if slightly dry and a little expensive for their size at £16 for two. The duck carnitas, however, didn’t falter. Soft chunks of slow-cooked duck were married with the gamey richness of offal, while punchy pickled kumquats provided a welcome sour note. Even where vegetables took centre stage, the power of meat was used to make them infinitely better. Case in point: hispi cabbage with beef fat bearnaise – a feat of pure brilliance.  

Our chatty and well-informed waiter provided spot-on service, confidently recommending a smooth primitivo that matched perfectly with our meal. You’ll leave Temper with the smell of smoke in your hair and clothes, but if that’s the price you pay for this level of cooking and service, well, it’s really no price at all. 

Temper's fourth restaurant - its Shoreditch branch - follows in the footsteps of its wildly popular sibling sites, offering a triple threat of ‘meat, fire and theatre'. 

The offering of whole-animal, open-fire cooking has proven to delight diners, with Temper's menus typically including a range of tacos and small plates, cocktails and barbarian-style cuts of meat to share. The Shoreditch site has its own unique menu, which still features well-loved Temper staples such as cheeseburger tacos, sweet and sour pork ribs and lamb and kimchi carnitas but offers up some specials only available in east London too. One menu highlight is the smoked brisket clam taco and if you're dining in a group, be sure to try out the sharing rare breed beef rib. 

Cocktails include the Lychilli, a lychee Tabasco concoction, and El Gran Humo (the big smoke), made with pineapple and habanero-infused mezcal and white rum.

Fans of the chain’s famous Sunday roast and bottomless brunches can rest easy, as these are available too. For those who don’t know, the Temper Sunday roast features the likes of whole smoked lamb shoulders or beef shin for six, with equally meaty trimmings including beef fat roast potatoes, honey roasted carrots, smoked parsnip puree and bottomless burnt ends gravy. Its bottomless brunch offering, meanwhile, includes 90 minutes of free-flowing wine, beer or cocktails, as well dishes such as a platter of coal-roasted beef, sausages, pork burnt ends, Andean yellow potatoes with gochujang butter, fried eggs, charred ramiro peppers and red onions, bourbon-pickled chillis, paratha and chimichurri.

Most of the butchering is done on-site, using as much of the animal as possible. The meat itself is from high welfare, regenerative farms such as Mount Grace Farm and Lyons Hill Farm in North Yorkshire and Dorchester respectively.

The Shoreditch site boasts two levels: a ground-floor cocktail bar and a basement restaurant with signature counter seats surrounding the fire pit so guests can watch the magic happen up close. Polished wood, leather and neon light installations decorate both floors, giving them a stylish yet relaxed feel.

Chef director David Lagonell has worked in Gordon Ramsay’s Michelin starred Boxwood, headed up Nopi (an Ottolenghi joint) and worked alongside top chefs like Jason Atherton and Francis Mallman.