This vast dining room is now Tate Modern’s flagship restaurant, on level nine of the twisted, off-kilter pyramid that is the Switch House. Boasting fabulous views (which disappear as you sit down), the stripped-back room is dressed in raw oak and bare concrete, leading to a minimalistic, canteen-style feel.
A concise menu of carefully sourced Brit dishes changes according to the seasons, but might inlclude something like grilled fillet of cod or Yorkshire heritage breed lamb loin. Our starter of Hampshire’s Chalk Stream trout was delicately assembled on roasted onions, white asparagus and pea purée: the slight bitterness of the asparagus married beautifully with sweet onions and soft flesh. The lamb is the star dish however, with heritage beetroot, celeriac purée and a knock-out white port sauce. Desserts include the likes of courgette and hazlenut cake, and strawberry and yogurt granola.
The service is well informed and the à la carte isn’t prohibitively expensive, but certainly comes at a ninth-floor premium. The pièce de résistance is Hamish Anderson's 100-strong wine list, an oenophile's dream packed with both classic and unusual bottles.