The tacky sign at the front doesn’t do this Persian any favours, but it does mean that diners are nicely surprised once inside. Modern, vibrant & stylishly designed, Tandis has the air of a wealthy Middle Eastern nightclub with dim lights & classy furnishings spread across four distinctive rooms. It’s a perfect backdrop for the food, which majors on rich lamb & chicken stews from the regions, skewered meat served with Iranian-style rice & salad, & some ‘beautifully cooked’ fish dishes. Veggies are also in luck, as their options are every bit as good as the meat selection – try the khoresh e aloo esfenaaj, a flavour-packed combination of Persian dried plums with vegetables cooked in a sweet & sour sauce. Finish off with the superb rosewater ice cream. Wines include some beefy European reds.