According to author John Steinbeck, ‘sweet Thursday’ is the day between ‘lousy Wednesday’ and ‘waiting Friday’ – some consolation for punters who visit this enterprising new De Beauvoir pizzeria. Inside, it’s a double header, with a wine shop at the front and the funky-looking, diner-style eating area beyond – all red and yellow tables, with cutlery in recycled tomato tins and Cola bottles filled with chilli oil. Eight kinds of thin-crust, Neapolitan-style pizza are cooked to order in the open kitchen, and there are some interesting toppings on show (try porchetta with rosemary, cream, fennel and lemon or aubergine, provola, salted ricotta, tomato and basil). The menu also extends to antipasti, salads and ‘oven’ dishes such as wood-fired sea bass with onions, martini and lime, plus puds including Marsala cream doughnuts. Wines come ‘from everywhere’, with an organic Sicilian heading the pack.