Sushi Tetsu

Let’s get the rigmarole out of the way first. You can only reserve a slot at this diminutive sushi outfit over the phone: they operate a weekly booking system (at specific times), and you need to follow the rules laid out on the website to guarantee a slot – otherwise, watch for last-minute cancellations in Twitter.

Is it worth the hassle? We definitely think so – in fact we can wholeheartedly recommend Kobe-trained Toru Takahashi’s very personal take on the high-end artistry of traditional sushi, especially his bespoke £96 omakase menu (nigiri, sashimi, hand rolls, sweet omelette etc).

Otherwise, order judiciously from a line-up of matchless briny-fresh fish, all depending on what the chef decides is good enough for the table: there might be mackerel, razor clams, octopus, scallops and eel among the haul, although the most highly prized stuff is tuna – four different cuts, to be precise (including the ‘very rich part’).

Everything receives exemplary treatment as Toru wields his knife, slicing with surgical precision and applying pin-point embellishments – delicately painting the fish with homemade soy, adding a touch of wasabi root, applying mirin or chilli where necessary, and even polishing the bamboo-leaf ‘plate’.    

Toru’s spouse Harumi is the kindest and most courteous of hosts – in fact everything from the exquisitely rendered rice to the premium saké is faultless. It’s just a shame about the palaver of booking a table at this revered sushi specialist.    

Arguably the most sought after seat in London, Sushi Tetsu is a seven-seat sushi bar in Farringdon headed up by ex-Nobu sushi master Toru Takahashi. In this tiny restaurant, he prepares every single dish himself, while his wife Harumi serves drinks. For the full experience, diners are recommended to opt for the omakase (which translates to 'I leave it up to you'). In this format, the chef essentially makes you whatever they want. This usually comes as lots of tiny courses, like a single piece of nigiri. 

While the omakase changes along with the seasons, you can definitely expect a mixture of sushi and non-sushi dishes. You might start with a mini selection of fresh sashimi, perhaps including sea bass or bream with a light ponzu or soy dressing. A non-sushi starting dish could be raw squid and noodles in cold dashi broth. This would likely come topped with a sprinkle of chives and nori. Later sushi courses will most likely feature richer entries like fatty o-toro tuna belly or snow crab. These could arrive with a heavier, miso-based sauce.

On to the proper sushi, where each course is one piece, you will likely be given almost every type of sushi you can think of. Salmon, tuna, prawn and all the other usual suspects will likely come as nigiri, splayed over a small blob of rice. Less common ingredients, such as salmon roe (or ikura), might come as gunkan (basically a loose seaweed cup with some rice, then the main ingredient). 

For a truly intimate sushi omakase experience in London, this might be the best around. Perfectly paired sake, served by Toru's wife Harumi makes this a beautiful dining experience. A la carte is also available here, but we think being taken on a journey by a sushi master is much better.