This congenial catacomb in the city’s financial sector seethes at lunchtime with suits taking a break from their work stations, & plays host to a rumbustious, good-time crowd in the evenings. The attraction is Sous Le Nez’s relaxed but sparky atmosphere, moderate prices & a wine list the length of the M1. The labyrinth of cellar dining rooms is as bright & light as ever, while the menu remains agreeably cosmopolitan & rich in choice. Robust meat dishes are a strong suit, although the kitchen’s main focus is fish: flavours are eclectic & the menu casts its net wide, taking in everything from crab cakes with lime & coriander salsa or grilled haddock with mash, spinach & cheese sauce to roast boudin noir with onion Tatin, braised oxtail or casseroled rabbit with merguez sausage & buttered linguine. To finish, perhaps crème brûlée with caramelised pears.