Sicily by Da Scalzo

London’s restaurant scene moves so fast that it can be easy to forget that restaurants don’t need to be flashy to be good. Reliable, unpretentious, welcoming spots often don’t get the air time they deserve, as is the case for this buzzy Italian restaurant in Victoria. Sicily by Da Scalzo is from the two brothers who previously owned Patisserie Valerie - Roberto and Enzo Scalzo – only this time they’ve swapped patisseries for pizza and pasta. 

It’s a warm and welcoming enterprise. The restaurant is nestled within a spacious split-level, grade II-listed property in Victoria, but they’ve cleverly managed to achieve peak cosiness with the help of low lighting and a rustic aesthetic. Old-school Italian posters and black and white photography line the walls, while high ceilings and arched wooden beams create a sense of grandness. 

This is a restaurant for everyone. Families, couples, friends and solo diners filled almost every seat when we arrived early evening, and we felt immediately at ease amongst the thrum of steady chit-chat. Despite there being so many bodies in one room, calm but efficient staff kept the cogs moving. 

The keenly-priced menu is geared towards pizza and pasta, albeit with a definitive Sicilian lilt. Caponata, a regional classic, was soft and velvety and delivered on its promise of sweet and sourness, although two hefty arancini, while filling a carb-craving gap, lacked any distinctive flavour. Our mains were simple and well-balanced, and showed a promising amount of creativity. Crab tortelloni served in a rich butter sauce was offset by the freshness of orange zest and dill. While a creamy bowl of salmon rigatoni retained a gratifying al dente bite. We finished with an almost-pitch-perfect tiramisu, rich with egg yolk and heavy on the mascarpone. A slightly heavier hand with the coffee-soaked sponge and we’d have reached perfection. 

Sicily won’t be earning an award for invention any time soon, but it ticks every box when it comes to dependability. And we all need a restaurant like that in our back pocket.

Located directly opposite Victoria coach station, Sicily by Da Scalzo is a cosy Italian restaurant from the same two London-born brothers who used to own Patisserie Valerie – Roberto and Enzo Scalzo. Housed inside a grade II-listed building, this spacious venue occupies two floors, with an advantageous mezzanine level that looks over the main restaurant below. At full capacity, it can seat 136 diners, although the duo have managed to retain a sense of charm and cosiness throughout the space thanks to rustic interiors and low lighting. Finally, in the centre of the space is a large marble-topped bar with a generous display of spirits and wine bottles.  

The kitchen is headed up by chef Andrea Betto, who hails from Rome and has been with Sicily from the beginning. As the name suggests, the menu features Italian classics with a Sicilian twist, albeit with a definite lean towards pasta and pizza dishes. Starters include the likes of caponata Siciliana and calamari fritti, while pasta dishes span plenty of traditional favourites – think pasta alla norma (aubergines, tomatoes and ricotta) and rigatoni in a creamy salmon sauce. A selection of crowd-pleasing pizzas ensures there’s something for everyone, but you can also opt for meatier mains such as pork belly roasted apple and potatoes. Finally, all the classics are present on the dessert menu, including tiramisu, gelato and apple tart with mascarpone. 

At the latter end of the week (Friday – Sunday), Sicily by Da Scalzo also serves breakfast until midday, from coffee and pastries to eggs benedict. While a kid’s menu takes care of family dining, making it an accessible place to bring little ones.  

Cocktails, aperitifs, beers, and liqueur coffees comprise a mostly Italian drinks list, while a generous selection of wines are available by the glass, carafe or bottle.