One of a clutch of quality restaurants around Ramsbottom, Sanmini’s is a south Indian specialist. The venue occupies a 19th-century gatehouse, though the dining rooms can feel like a formal domestic parlour stripped of knick-knacks. It was founded and is overseen by doctors Dev and Mini Sankar, with the aim of presenting traditional street and station snacks in a restaurant setting. Mini’s own culinary touches are a highlight. To start, try her chicken 65, appalams (like poppadoms) with hot, clean-cut chutneys, or chilli mushrooms or paneer spiced with the house masala blend. As you might expect, vegetarian food is given equal billing with the fish vadai or mutton biriyani, and tiffin dishes are a forte; crisp dosas, served plain with chutney and sambar or stuffed with spiced potatoes, have definite tabletop presence. To follow, there’s a beetroot pudding that’s startlingly but naturally vivid, and homemade gulab jamun with ice cream.