We walked into At The Station, a collection of chefs, entrepreneurs, sommeliers and bakers, with no expectations. Clubbed together in a former train station warehouse, just off Frome’s tourist track, the promise of pizza was a handy pit stop while driving through. We didn’t expect to leave totally in love with its community-focused concept, hugging goodbye to the people who make it what it is and wishing we could stay all evening, when the wine bar is overflowing and the live music starts.
At its heart is Rye Bakery and Pizzeria, which started as a smaller venue in town in 2017 before expanding here. Rye is big on local, sustainable, seasonal produce and the team work with farmers across Somerset to secure the best ingredients which are used in their morning pastries, like berry-filled financiers, and wood-fired pizzas topped with the freshest non-chemical vegetables, expertly-picked cheeses and often meats from next door’s Owen’s Sausages and Hams.
At the back of the building in a double-heighted space, you’ll find Owen’s, a tongue-in-cheek take on Scandinavian hot dogs. Made and smoked in-house, his creations bring together a pillow-y soft bun, the keen bite of firm, delicious frank and a wonderland of toppings, with the most outrageous named that week’s ‘silly sausage’ including previous concoctions like kimchi, Gochujang mayo, puffed and toasted brown rice.
And, where would we be without some quality libations? Rye Bakery have collaborated with Jack Lewens, former head sommelier for the likes of The River Café and co-founder of his own wine brand Vigneti Tardis, on a bottle shop designed to feel like you’re in somebody’s kitchen – where the best parties happen. Wines are mostly natural with a focus on low intervention, from an impressive spread of producers including plenty of independents, and of course, Jack’s own. Within the building there’s also an art gallery, yoga studio, cheese mongers and much more, with regular events and live music, too. If you’re in Frome you simply have to go, it’s a joyful collection of talented, wonderful people who all bring their own unique talents to this truly delicious venture.