Piazza Restaurant at the Royal Opera House

The Royal Opera House’s Open Up initiative continues apace, as the historic venue looks to become more accessible and inclusive. Did you know, for example, that you can just walk up to the lofty al fresco terraces that overlook Covent Garden? Climb a succession of stairs and escalators and you can relax up here with a drink, for no extra fee. This is also where you’ll find Piazza - the ROH’s reinvented restaurant which also hopes to entice the masses with quality modern British cooking.

Enough about the terrace, though. Piazza is adjacent and very much inside, though it is lovely and bright thanks to the large windows, and perhaps you can eat al fresco if you ask. In comparison to the foliage and views outside, the restaurant is smart but perhaps a little staid, a mixture of white paint, gold accents and beige carpet. It’s big and spacious, though, with plenty of room to cater for the masses who eat in the opera intervals.

There’s lots to get excited about on the menu, which trends towards British flavours but occasionally throws in a little fleck of something intriguing. Duck arancini with shiitake and mango, for example, which are crunchy and meaty, though the mango is somewhat lost in the action. Piazza seems at its best when sticking to classic flavours - a slab of Hampshire pork loin is beautifully cooked and served with a pair of smooth, sultry purees (black garlic and apple) and a decent wedge of charred hispi cabbage. A grilled broccoli starter with citrus puree and pine nuts was also excellent, but there were misses too - a tranche of roast cod was a tad overcooked and didn’t have the requisite flake, and the seasoning could have been dialled in a little more tightly on a few dishes.

We finished with a raspberry and lime tart which looked the part and, though very nice, was a little on the dense side. All the issues we had with Piazza were small things that are easily rectified - we think the restaurant could be a valuable addition to Covent Garden, though for the moment you might find better options for the price.

Piazza is the flagship restaurant at the world-famous Royal Opera House in Covent Garden, and as you'd expect for one of the great operatic theatres on the planet, the restaurant has also recruited an all-star team to make sure this restaurant lives up to the billing. Once upon a time, you needed tickets to a show to eat at the restaurant at the Royal Opera House, but no longer - now guests can visit Piazza independently, even if they're not opera fans. 

The restaurant interiors have been redesigned by interior designer Naomi Cleaver, who has also worked on projects like iQ Shoreditch, The Helix in Wembley and The Hive in Bethnal Green. The slick, elegant interiors are just one part of the fun up here - perhaps more importantly, the rooftop restaurant offers some lovely views over Covent Garden from the outdoor terrace.

Meanwhile, executive chef Richard Robinson joins the team, with a background that includes time at highly regarded restaurants like The French Laundry and Per Se in New York, and Tom's Kitchen in London. The new menu focuses heavily on seasonality and sustainability, working with a hefty list of quality local producers, including fishmonger James Knight of Mayfair, Paxton & Whitfield cheese, and Cobble Lane Cured charcuterie. 

Dishes at the time of writing include London Burrata with heritage beetroots, Evesham celeriac with mushroom and fennel, lemon sole with English sparkling wine and mushroom, and Herdwick lamb shoulder with potato puree and roasted shallots. There are also a few sharing dishes, including a Belted Galloway ox cheek pie with bone marrow mash and seasonal greens, not to mention, Piazza will have a dedicated vegetarian menu. 

Drinks-wise, Piazza boasts a considerable wine list, alongside a cocktail list that ranges from classics to more unorthodox signatures, like a gingerbread tequila Old Fashioned, or a white chocolate and vanilla martini.