Pivot Bar & Bistro

Unless someone has specifically told you in hushed tones to head to the first floor of 3 Henrietta Street, Pivot is likely to go under most people’s radar. But, then again, maybe that’s a good thing. The cosy, terracotta-walled restaurant probably couldn’t seat more than 30 people per sitting and overlooks Covent Garden’s piazza – we recommend requesting a window seat when booking. It’s Scottish chef Mark Greenaway’s debut London venture and, if you ask us, is all the more intriguing for being kept a secret for as long as it can.  

The menu options are two-fold, four or six-courses, both of which pivot (get it?) every month in line with what’s in season, so don’t get too attached to anything you eat here. This is fine dining, yes, but stifled and restrained it most certainly is not. Greenaway successfully injects every course with frivolity and theatre so that mushrooms on toast is, of course, not simply mushrooms on toast.  

We watched with apprehension as our waiters carried a whole mushroom ‘tree’ to the table, complete with scissors and tweezers to trim the mushroom 'branches’ from the forest-like growth. Paired with truffle butter and crisp sourdough, the starter was a build-your-own situation and a jolly good time. 

Of our remaining courses, lobster and halibut with seaweed and a creamy lobster bisque stood out, combining succulently soft textures and subtle flavours to create an understated (in a good way) main.  

Greenaway’s skill with desserts was emblematised in the sweet course titled ‘Chocolate’, of which various carefully-placed splodges of mousse, kumquat jam and, yes, chocolate sit beneath a sesame brittle halo. It was a marvel to look at and not too sweet, although we could be really pedantic and say there were a few too many flavours competing on one plate. 

We do regret not trying the Waffle Sandwich, a wistful dessert filled with bramble ice cream and rice crispies, but there’ll be a whole new menu again next month. We’ll just have to come back. 

Pivot is a British bar and bistro from chef Mark Greenaway spanning two floors of 3 Henrietta Street, a refurbished five-floor townhouse in Covent Garden which also houses casual all-day cafe Lilly’s and basement Tiki bar El Ta’koy. Greenaway has already established himself as one of Scotland’s most highly-regarded chefs with his restaurant Grazing in Edinburgh, but this is his first London venture, with his menus here honing in on high-quality and seasonal produce.

On the first floor, Pivot Bistro serves homely gourmet dishes from an all-day a la carte menu. Guests can expect to dine on staunchly British classics, from pork crackling crisps and a Scotch egg to start, to Cumberland sausages with bubble and squeak and caramelised onion gravy, and roasted ham with eggs, potatoes and mustard. There's also a dedicated section of the menu devoted to 'warm stottie bread' which can be ordered alongside a range of dips, such as English pea hummus and beef fat gravy. On Sunday, Pivot also serves up a cracking roast dinner of between one and three courses, with the main event featuring the likes of roast beef, chicken or wild mushrooms on toast with Yorkshires and all the trimmings.

The ground floor houses Pivot bar, a relaxed café and bar serving tasty food with award-winning coffee from The Gentlemen Baristas, as well as a quality range of beer, wine and cocktails. The food menu also features traditional breakfast and brunch options, like bubble and squeak with a fried egg, as well as sandwiches, salads, pies and bar snacks for more casual dining throughout the day. While later on the cafe transitions into a cosy bar area where guests can enjoy a drink along with a few British sharing plates. Don't miss its 2-4-1 happy hour deal from Monday to Thursday, 12-5pm.