An upmarket chippy for an upmarket audience, Oliver’s is a glossy little joint decked out in shiny pea-green tiles. At the back is a handful of tables sporting bottles of Sarson’s vinegar, for
those who choose to eat in. Fish is cooked in vegetable oil, with unusually pleasing results. Cod, haddock or plaice is dunked in batter or matzo meal, before being fried to produce a crisp coating
and moist fish inside. Healthy options include grilled salmon in a warm ciabatta roll, and a range of salads. Smaller portions are available for children, who will doubtless crave a deep-fried
Mars bar for afters. Prices are fair; staff are peppy. Given that Oliver’s was set up by the brains behind Millie’s Cookies, a rollout across the capital could be coming soon.