Oklava

Selin Kiazim's boundary-pushing restaurant was one of Shoreditch's early birds, and Kiazim's brilliant Cypriot Turkish cooking had a fair hand in turning this end of town into one of London's most exciting food neighbourhoods. Oklava has had a few births and rebirths since then - including the much-missed Oklava Bread and Wine in Warren Street. Now the original Shoreditch site has reinvented itself once again in ditching the a la carte menu for a tasting menu - a first for the restaurant.

On the inside, Oklava is calm and pleasing on the eye. A long service counter doubles as a dining space and a bar for those who want to stop by for a cocktail. Though the royal blue trim and burnished bronze floor gives off a somewhat palatial vibe, Oklava feels well worn and homely at this point, and the service is relaxed, friendly and knowledgeable.

The danger of a tasting menu is, you're not guaranteed to get the dishes that you want. Thankfully, Oklava's star players are in the lineup, and they're as good as ever. Kiazim's chilli-roasted cauliflower with red onion and parsley salad is still totally spell-binding, as that robust chilli paste caramelises in all the cracks and crevices of the cauliflower, whilst the piquancy of raw red onion lifts everything.

But wait, there's more. The black garlic pide with egg yolk is here too, and though it feels slightly odd to eat bread with a knife and fork in the middle of a tasting menu, it's still a delicious thing. Also into the bargain are some sophisticated sharing plates - a slab of grilled halloumi with honey, oregano and lemon was our pick of the bunch - and a main course of spiced short rib, yoghurt sauce, tomato butter and crispy potato really delivered on the comfort front. 

Meanwhile there's an impressive wine and cocktail list, which delves into great wines from Greece, Turkey, Armenia and Georgia. At just £52 at the time of writing, Oklava's tasting menu is an impressive display of what can be achieved with a tasting menu, without breaking the bank.

A joint venture between Laura Christie and Selin Kiazim, Turkish-Cypriot restaurant Oklava has been a success since the second it opened. Perhaps it’s something to do with the menu of gutsy Ottoman-style dishes coupled with warm and welcoming service. The duo is certainly not short on talent anyway. Selin runs the kitchen and designs the menus, while Laura heads up front of house and the ever-expanding wine list.

Formerly a Great British Menu winner, Selin knows how to create impactful plates of food that people really want to eat and - crucially – share with those they love. For dinner, guests are invited to dine from a fixed-price sharing menu, while for lunch an a la carte offering is available, but both are designed to offer high-quality food for a fair price. 

Examples of some of its signature dishes include chilli roasted cauliflower with red onion, parsley and pistachios, black Sea cheese pide with butter, egg yolk, black garlic and za'atar, and smoked aubergine with sweet pepper and sun-dried tomato dressing. Much of the menu is cooked over the grill to achieve that earthy, chargrilled flavour so intrinsically associated with Turkish cuisine. You'll also find plenty of vegetarian dishes up for grabs. Finally, desserts might include Künefe (a sweet spun pastry dish) loaded with clotted cream and pistachios.

The drinks list includes fragrant cocktails and interesting sparkling wines, including whites, orange and pinks, and reds. You can order these by the glass, bottle or carafe.

The best seats in the house are at the counter, where you can watch the chefs work their magic. Elsewhere – in the bright, pared back space – there is a collection of classic tables and chairs more suited to larger groups.