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Neo Bistro

British·
££££
·
Silver Award
·

SquareMeal Review of Neo Bistro

Silver Award

NEO BISTRO CLOSED PERMANENTLY IN EARLY 2019SquareMeal London Hot 100 2018

This idiosyncratically British interpretation of the Parisian ‘bistronomie’ movement combines high-end cooking with low-end prices in a casual setting with bare tables, strip lighting, fashionable artwork and counter seating for walk-ins. But while the prices might be high street, this is cooking that can easily compete with some of Mayfair’s better addresses. 

The kitchen is capable of delivering some really top dishes – try the “wobbly” veal sweetbreads (the best we’ve ever eaten) complemented by soft folds of pied de bleu mushrooms or a “daring pairing” of Herdwick lamb and smoky eel. But Neo Bistro can do delicate, too – witness a plate of white crab meat flaked over a vividly green courgette purée that sings sweetly of summer. Wines are equally off-piste: our charming waitress led us to glasses of Luxembourg Riesling and Austrian Blaufränkisch, for example. “Every reason to return”, says a Neo Bistro convert – and we’ll be doing just that.  

 

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
British
Ambience
Lively

Location

11 Woodstock Street, London, W1C 2AE
Website

Opening Times

Wed-Sat 12.15pm-2.30pm Tues-Sat 6-9.45pm

Reviews

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2 Reviews 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Mark D

25 June 2018  
Really tasty food and good value prices. Empty on a Friday night came as a surprise. High-ish mark-ups for wine and poor stocks, plus overcharging on the bill were blots on an otherwise enjoyable experience.

Alex G

07 August 2017  
Food & Drink 4.5
Service 4
Atmosphere 4
Value 4
Modern dining
The prefix, ‘neo’ means new. Any restaurant, therefore, which chooses to put this word in its name comes with a certain set of expectations attached. Fortuitously, Neo Bistro deserves such epithet. A recent lunch visit to the second venture from the team behind Farringdon’s Anglo was highly successful, in terms of concept, food and service. The restaurant sits in a former pub, in an area which could generously be described as North Mayfair, or less charitably, as just off Oxford Street. Somehow it works – metaphorically sticking its finger up at the Mayfair fine dining scene, but providing a considerably better option than the almost-adjacent Angus Steakhouse. Inside, the restaurant is all exposed brick, strip lighting and fashionable art work. So far, so very predictable, but then there are also some features from the former pub preserved (such as the stained-glass windows and perhaps some of the seating), a nice touch. In terms of food, the emphasis is on simplicity – no tyranny of choice here, with just three starters and three mains from which to choose, as well as a couple of daily specials. But, everything my comrade and I sampled was superb, both in terms of presentation and execution. The Cornish crab salad with courgette was delicate yet full of flavour, and I was left pleasantly salivating. The bar was raised with the main, a daring pairing of lamb with smoked eel, the two serving as effective foils for each other. If this is ‘neo’ cooking, then I want more! The wine list is brief and eclectic, and the Austrian Zweigelt we shared with my lamb and my comrade’s celeriac porridge, was a good choice. Pricing is fair (by Mayfair standards), at ~£10 for starters and no more than £20 for mains. Every reason to return.

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